... FRANCIGENA VIA TUSCANY
14-15 September 2009
14-15 September 2009
Walking along the FRANCIGENA
Appetite comes with eating, goes the old saying. It is indeed true and after trying the emotions of the Way of Saint James the desire to experiment with something like that was strong. The opportunity was to take a stroll on the Via Francigena, also called the Via Romea, another ancient and great location. The so-called
peregrinationes maiores , the great pilgrimage, had three goals: Rome, Santiago and Jerusalem. Participants in these long voyages had different titles according to their destination. Arrived in Jerusalem the "palm trees" for the use of bringing palm leaves. Travelers to our Eternal City were the "Romeo" and the cross or the crossed keys were their signs. Those who went to Santiago were the "pilgrims" to the distinctive shell.
The ViaFrancigena, or ITER Francorum, was the one who traveled all these travelers. From Canterbury and Reims and in crossing France joined them who came from Central and Eastern Europe.
Pilgrims had various choices. In Besançon Lausanne or you could divert to Le Puy en Velay, where he began the Camino Francés to the Pyrenees and Galicia. Who went to Rome, crossing the Alps to the Great St. Bernard towards Aosta, or the Montgenevre Mont Cenis or the Piedmont, where he crossed a pilgrimage to this day unknown, the "Angel Way" from Mont Saint Michel in Brittany and Monte Sant'Angelo in the Gargano. The Francigena then crossed the Po Valley and Northern Italy to Parma and Modena, to ascend the Apennines at Cisa Pass or one of the root. Then went down in the Garfagnana Lunigiana or Lucca, common connection point.
After the city of Lucca, the ancient village of Alton was an important stop for the presence of the Friars of the Hospital of St. James (Knights of the Tau), where pilgrims were welcomed and cared for. Alton started by a detour to Pistoia the cult of St. James, worship strengthened after the 1114 relic arrived from Spain. The
Francigena instead went on Cerbaie bypassing unhealthy areas of the vast marsh of the time and after touching Fucecchio and San Miniato, reached San Gimignano, Colle Val d'Elsa and Monteriggioni before arriving in Siena. Other stopping points were Buonconvento and Grange of Cuna, then down to San Quirico d'Orcia and Bagno Vignoni to enter the Lazio Acquapendente to Bolsena, Viterbo and finally Rome. Who could have went to Jerusalem.
Most of the trip was on paved roads built by the Roman legions, routes that linked much of Europe in Rome.
The European Union called the Via Francigena and the Road to Santiago "European cultural routes" and "main routes across Europe," providing funds for improvements to paths and the accommodations. The two trips have in common to have had such importance that have been already described in two documents since the Middle Ages, true forerunners of travel guides. In 990 AD the Bishop of Canterbury told Sigerico made the trip, describing in detail the stages and places visited. In the years between 1120 and 1130 by Pope Callistus II was drawn up a code (Codex Calixtinus) on the history of St. James, one part was the description of the features and places where you hospitality in the journey to Compostella.
Today there are unfortunately large differences between the two routes.
Going to Santiago can not lose sight of the ubiquitous yellow arrows and signs of the Way, residents are also available to provide guidance. E 'can also sleep and eat in all the towns large and small meet and spend a few euro.
Francigena On the other hand the story is different and far more difficult in all. Areas with poor signage, and then sometimes not made prettier. There are the white arrows, panels with the profile of the pilgrim and some signs, but unfortunately sometimes they are hidden by vegetation or structures and sometimes fall down and restore them to anyone. Get more information is almost useless because too often the locals do not even know that there Francigena. When there is a hostel for pilgrims must have recourse to the Bed & Breakfast, guesthouses and hotels in France and Italy that cost more than in parts of northern Spain (in 2008 in Samos, a twin bedroom with bathroom TV and we paid only 34 €, that is 17 euro each!).
In recent years, the Council of Europe has launched plans to push the countries involved in Francigena ensure that public authorities, associations of pilgrims and religious organizations can help the growth in terms of signage and the creation of accommodation. In our country we are behind, although in some regions of the north you're doing, we hope that south of the renovation will come soon. All this because it is not only a pilgrimage but also international tourists with everything that comes cheaply.
As for the direct experience on the track, unfortunately, on only three stages: a separate, two in a row. The first was on the plains 18 km from Lucca to Alton, to test the route with easy movements of trains on the Florence-Viareggio. Unfortunately, we pass by the beauty of Lucca to the streets to the suburbs and then to follow to Capannori Porcari and Alton. Except for a short stretch of tarmac and it was always the beauty the landscape is not always enjoyable. Signs controversial, sometimes non-existent for a path at times bizarre. In addition, the Abbey of Pozzeveri within walking distance of Alton is closed and is starting to crumble.
VOTE TO STAGE: 4.
The two consecutive steps, however, were located in one of the most fascinating areas of Tuscany Francigena, or from San Miniato, San Gimignano, always use public transportation.
Downloaded from road-book website Itineraria.eu "and without the backpacks could do was make these" four steps ". Reconstituted our historic trio, José Luis, Emilio and I left the car in San Miniato and began the first stage, from the convent San Francisco to Gambassi Terme, a distance of about 24 km.
From the perspective of the cultural and scenic stretch is very beautiful, winding through the hills and passing old churches and houses on isolated roads or cart tracks in the country. The cypress trees and small patches of woods are grown and vineyards in the classic layout of our beautiful region. After the first few kilometers I put away the signs because the road book was magnificent as the path. A couple of hours of rain at mid slowed us down but we have taken away the taste of the journey.
there are no real difficulty but it is necessary to bring its water and food because there are no shops, bars or other along the path. The last 5 km to go up legs are in constant climb to overcome a height difference of 230 meters.
The two consecutive steps, however, were located in one of the most fascinating areas of Tuscany Francigena, or from San Miniato, San Gimignano, always use public transportation.
Downloaded from road-book website Itineraria.eu "and without the backpacks could do was make these" four steps ". Reconstituted our historic trio, José Luis, Emilio and I left the car in San Miniato and began the first stage, from the convent San Francisco to Gambassi Terme, a distance of about 24 km.
From the perspective of the cultural and scenic stretch is very beautiful, winding through the hills and passing old churches and houses on isolated roads or cart tracks in the country. The cypress trees and small patches of woods are grown and vineyards in the classic layout of our beautiful region. After the first few kilometers I put away the signs because the road book was magnificent as the path. A couple of hours of rain at mid slowed us down but we have taken away the taste of the journey.
there are no real difficulty but it is necessary to bring its water and food because there are no shops, bars or other along the path. The last 5 km to go up legs are in constant climb to overcome a height difference of 230 meters.
VOTE TO STEP 9. A
Gambassi Terme for now the only structure used is the former cinema available free of charge by the parish, with use of a bathroom to the needs and be able to wash, but you can sleep on the floor. It then dinner at a pizzeria in the country or where you want. Available in the center a small hotel not too expensive restaurant, waiting for the new structure that should arise in the beautiful Parish of Chianni.
The second stage is only 14 km. San Gimignano is an alternative to the arrival at Colle Val d'Elsa, but in this case the distance to be covered over 35 miles and not being trained as in 2008 we used the caution. The beauty of this stage is
guess, just think of rapprochement to the beautiful town of Siena, but the magnificent views or typical places there are even earlier, in a case Collemuccioli.
The evolution of the track is more fluctuating in uneven than the previous one but without having regard to the difficulties and short enough to read stocks. A couple of climbs require a little 'more effort and in a few cases, there maybe two or three signs, but not much.
Gambassi Terme for now the only structure used is the former cinema available free of charge by the parish, with use of a bathroom to the needs and be able to wash, but you can sleep on the floor. It then dinner at a pizzeria in the country or where you want. Available in the center a small hotel not too expensive restaurant, waiting for the new structure that should arise in the beautiful Parish of Chianni.
The second stage is only 14 km. San Gimignano is an alternative to the arrival at Colle Val d'Elsa, but in this case the distance to be covered over 35 miles and not being trained as in 2008 we used the caution. The beauty of this stage is
guess, just think of rapprochement to the beautiful town of Siena, but the magnificent views or typical places there are even earlier, in a case Collemuccioli.
The evolution of the track is more fluctuating in uneven than the previous one but without having regard to the difficulties and short enough to read stocks. A couple of climbs require a little 'more effort and in a few cases, there maybe two or three signs, but not much.
VOTE 8.
In San Gimignano you can rest and refresh themselves while awaiting the bus to Poggibonsi and Florence or to continue the journey. The prices are high and should do some more miles in and sleep elsewhere.
Total time of two stages: 12 hours including stops. Total expenditure by € 55 per person (hotel, dinner, breakfast, tickets). Last
statistical curiosity. On the Camino de Santiago pilgrims encountered about 5,000 in 13 days on ViaFrancigena n.3 pilgrims in two days: a cycling and walking two.
In San Gimignano you can rest and refresh themselves while awaiting the bus to Poggibonsi and Florence or to continue the journey. The prices are high and should do some more miles in and sleep elsewhere.
Total time of two stages: 12 hours including stops. Total expenditure by € 55 per person (hotel, dinner, breakfast, tickets). Last
statistical curiosity. On the Camino de Santiago pilgrims encountered about 5,000 in 13 days on ViaFrancigena n.3 pilgrims in two days: a cycling and walking two.
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